Celebrating in Alaska – Part Two

Day 5 – Sitka

Click to View Sitka Map

I felt like I was playing a horrible game of Bingo hoping and praying for number 17 to be called. There was no consistent pattern of time between the numbers being called and no apparent groupings:

“Now calling numbers 2, 3, 4.”
Time passed. We sat on the ship’s red-carpeted stairs swirling from deck four to deck five.
“Now calling (I held my breath) … eight.”
“EIGHT?! I impatiently said to myself. Not even ‘8,9,10?!’”

Then as if someone spun the bingo basket harder, our lucky 17 was called! I jumped up yelling “Winner! Winner!” giving the rest of the early morning travelers a laugh (and more than likely embarrassing my adorable husband).

We tendered on the smallish watercraft to Sitka’s shore. Walking a block to the town’s only bike shop, Yellow Jersey Cycle Shop, we were greeted by a kind young man who outfitted us with our reserved bikes. We had plans to bike north to Sitka’s National Historic Park Trails and then, I guess I could say ‘thankfully’, we had stolen ideas from the more expensive excursion book that the cruise ship office had left out. Much in my boredom waiting for lucky 17, I had started jotting down places wealthier travelers were being “excursion-ed” to. Thimbleberry Lake was at the top of my list.

Sitka National Historic Park was first on our route. It is a lovely and well-kept park. Tall pine trees and Tlingit totem poles lined the gravel pathways. We walked through the winding paths enjoying the moss-covered fallen trees, the vast creek beds giving way to the islands and Sitka Sound. We saw bald eagles, local Alaskans with their dogs and children, and read about the history of Sitka that was displayed throughout the park.

We then rode out of downtown, through the city and neighborhoods, three miles to Thimbleberry Lake. Rocks and shells lined the pathway making for a rather exciting mountain biking. My arms jittering over the terrain, hoping not to slow Chris down too much, I stopped to cuddle a wet and mud covered dog. He greeted me with the same friendliness that all Alaskans had so far. I could now see why so many travelers claim Alaska to be one of their favorite destinations, a place they continue to visit over and over. The landscape is beyond gorgeous and the communities that attempt to embrace the vast, sometimes difficult, landscape (and incessant tourists) are so very kind.

After another three miles back to downtown Sitka, we returned our bikes early to take in the quaint shops. Passing St. Michael’s Cathedral, displaying Sitka’s Russian heritage, we turned the corner to find Alaskan honey (fireweed!) and a few gifts for family. We made our way to a local café that was in a historic radio station building. Larkspur Caffe, where the service is slow, but the food is beyond fantastic! Chowder with salmon, Andouille sausage, potatoes, and a lot of other goodness was paired with a homemade focaccia bread sandwich. I requested my sandwich with Swiss cheese and prosciutto. Delicious!

Tendering back to our ship, we enjoyed the rest of the afternoon reading books and enjoying the voyage out of the Sitka Sound. We were on our way to our last Alaskan port, Ketchikan.

Day 6 – Ketchikan

The Southeast Sea Kayak guides looked oddly bewildered. It was nearing eight in the morning and they were trying their best to look cheery. Yet without a raincloud in sight, it seemed they weren’t quite sure to be jovial about the weather or saddened that we weren’t going to experience a true Ketchikan day. No complaints from us, we are just fine basking in the unusual 60 degrees and sunny weather that is rare in a place where it rains 27 days out of each month. The average rainfall per year is 14 feet. Yes, feet.

“The first city of Alaska”, a place originally built by gold digging and prostitution, I wasn’t sure it was a place I’d enjoy. Yet it was a quaint town and beautifully kept. Tess, our guide for our kayaking excursion, took us to be outfitted with gear at the dock. We then tendered twenty minutes to our captain’s boat where he anchors. Until 6pm nearly every day he is there to greet the kayaking crews coming to explore the Orca Cove of Ketchikan.

Southeast Sea Kayaks is run by a husband-wife team of twelve years. Gillian, born in Wisconsin but claims an upbringing in Australia, met her Australian husband, Greg, in Ketchikan. Working summers for another company she soon called Southeast Sea Kayaks her home, married Greg, and as she put it with a bright smile, “Great job security came when the twins arrived.” It was clear they both enjoy what they do showing tourists their little part of Alaska.

Tess, a recently graduated nursing student from Philly who works summers for Southeast Sea Kayaks, got us into our tandem kayaks. We meandered into Black Lagoon, a small area that is only accessible during high tide. Surrounded by black volcanic rock and a gray juvenile bald eagle perched above, Tess pointed out where Tlingit Indians used to dig out their canoes and wait for the lagoon’s tide to rise to take them out into the cove to fish. King salmon are often near the shores and in the shallow creeks spawning their next generation. Bears, eagles, deer, and other wildlife (not to mention fisherman) soon follow behind. Orcas are the most successful “fisherman” and are often cussed out over the gossiping radio stations as fishermen miss the catch.

We crossed the cove farther south to “1, 2, 3” islands. A nest of two eaglets was overheard on island two, the momma eagle providing a snack while a small raven was berating another eagle. It doesn’t seem to matter where or what you are, sometimes neighbors are persistently unfriendly. The bald eagle soon gave up the discussion and left the perch to his triumphant small “friend”.

Purple and orange starfish clung to the rocks covered by barnacles and small black muscles. Mounds of seaweed and kelp floated by, including the bullwhip and another species that was formally used for thyroid medications because of its high iodine properties. The pine trees stretched all the taller in the brightness of the unusually flashy sun above. Tess continued to point out historical facts and fun insight:

“That is where they were considering the bridge to nowhere…you know, one of the best things Sarah Palin shot down as governor. Basically it would have cost Ketchikan and Alaska 300 years worth of ferry rides that transport the 52 inhabitants of that island and the various travelers to the international airport where it resides. Did you know its called ‘international’ because one flight had to emergency land in Canada? Apparently, that’s all you need to qualify. Only Alaska Airlines flies there.”

She continues, “And over there is where they recently filmed an episode for one of those Bush People of Alaska shows…its where two families live in boat houses that have zero running water or electricity. No doubt they travel to Wal-Mart like the rest of us to get their essentials…which is where, I’ll have you know, they don’t sell poles for your bike seats. Unfortunate when mine got stolen. Two things get stolen in Ketchikan – bikes and safety boat equipment. Fishermen at 4am in their haste to compete for the best King salmon.”

We also learned that the children in Ketchikan have the best views from their schools that overlook the sea. There they are taught the Alaskan history of tribal houses, clans, and survival methods. Their eighth grade project requires girls on one island and boys on another. They are left for four days and three nights to survive the elements with only the contents of their choosing that fits in a coffee can. I might have to steal this idea for the Mini Macks!

We docked our kayak amongst the other 13 behind the wooden Sea Spree. Greg had laid out a spread of cream cheese, capers, crackers, and their own label of smoked and canned King Salmon. I justified my second helping since Chris does not care for seafood. His loss, my gain! Greg explained that his twin boys help with sticking the labels on the cans and that they ship most cases at Christmas time where families divvy them out as gifts.

Making our way back to town, we said our goodbyes to Tess. All aboard! Our biggest discussion for the afternoon was the best way to justify a second dessert (after that of waffle cones and sherbet). I concluded it must be eaten naked so as not to be guiltily harassed by elastic that often surrounds my ribcage. Chris disagreed that naked is the worst way because then you see why you really don’t need another dessert. To each his own, my theory proved 100% successful.

Day 7 – Sea and Victoria Island, British Columbia

Chapter twenty-five: “I killed and dressed (or undressed, as the case may be) my first bunny in ten minutes. A chicken takes at least thirty minutes, a duck over an hour – another benefit of the rabbit.” During breakfast, I read about the butchering of a rabbit raised in an urban farmyard in Oakland, CA. Novella Carpenter’s Farm City: The Education of an Urban Farmer was my chosen companion when Chris was occupied. Over a fresh omelet of spinach, mushrooms, tomatoes, and smoked salmon, I completed the chapter on the eighth deck of the cruise ship. With all its equally gruesome and bountiful harvest of the white rabbit, I now understood what “cut the throat and remove the pajamas” meant. The whole ordeal made me, yet again, thankful for those that have come before me to provide food. Also, the undeniable courage and innovation of humans that enables us to survive.

I heard our tour guide yesterday say to another tourist, “Yes, Orca whales travel here often. They come to the shore to feast on the salmon.” She went on to explain her theory that orca whales are smarter than humans due to their body/brain ratio. Apparently it is comparable, if not larger than that of humans. Thus concluding, bigger brain equals higher intelligence. For whatever reason, the theory baffled me. Admittedly it even irritated me. Why would God create a mammal smarter than humans and put us in charge? Maybe, the difference is not in intellect, but I would surmise it is in the spirit. God has called us, not whales or other creators, to be near to Him. As the rabbit that became nourishment for Ms. Carpenter, God is so much more to sustain us than any belly full of food ever could. Now this, this brings me great thankfulness. And I only hope that I will have the undeniable courage to share that with others.

We are at sea. The travelers are groggy from the week’s activities. The floor to ceiling windows enclosing the ship is in agreement as they are “whited out” with thick bright fog. It reminds me much like that of a scene from a movie making an emotional transition to the final act. The foghorn continues to sound as we make our way to our final stop this evening in Victoria, British Columbia.

The sun was in its “golden hour” and made the small sea island all the more enchanting. A local at the dock simply stated, “Follow the yellow brick road” when a tourist inquired how to get to town. Two miles later, following the cobble pathway, we were between the Grand Empress hotel and the Govenor’s building.

Victorian style bed and breakfasts, candy colored boathouses, mounds of colorful flowers all around, this sea town was warmly inviting. Red and white Canadian flags waved in the salty sea breezes; a beautiful contrast to the cerulean sky above, punctuated with a half moon smiling down on us.

I’ll have you know, even Canadian geese were present! I have often wondered if all Canadian geese have moved to Chesapeake, Virginia, as they are constantly stopping traffic and challenging drivers to hit them breaking a wildlife protection law. I digress.

I found two beautiful paintings crafted by a husband-wife team from Vancouver Island. They are exactly what I had been hoping to find for Rory’s room. Handing them Canadian dollars (a nearly equal exchange rate to the U.S. dollar), I was giddy with the golden sunshine and colorful sea town before me.

Day 8 – Seattle. Home.

It was like one of those predictable scenes from a chick flick. The boat starts to disembark from the dock as the one lover turns their back slowly from the water’s edge in disappointment. Then, as if by magic, they hear their lover’s voice! To both their delightful surprise they are reunited. The ship waits only a moment for the lovers to reunite onboard and then it sails away in the distance while they embrace on its bow.

The difference however is that our boat did not wait. It left four minutes early. We saw it leave the dock as we ran beside it. No lover calling us to the bow. We were left there watching it sail into the north to San Juan Island where great orca whale watching happens.

Our cruise ship was a “blue haired” ship. Meaning the average age was probably 60. We were probably one of four couples in their twenties on the ship of 1455 guests. This was great for us, not being the partying type, we liked the laid back and quiet style of these retired cruisers who are on their fifteenth or sixteenth Alaskan cruise (I kid you not). Yet, the biggest downside was dear “Marge” taking her sweet time to allow us off the ship once it was “cleared”. “Peter said we have to wait until exactly 7:30am.” She then realizes her watch was set slow and stubbornly ignored guests’ pleas for disembarkation.

I tried calling the Victoria Clipper ferry from the taxi. They were kind, but realistic, “You likely won’t make it.” They were right. Our non-refundable twelve hour tour complete with ferry ride, whale watching, and time on San Juan island was a bust. We soon transferred the excursion to some local friends who had mentioned interest in the adventure when we booked it a few months prior. At least someone else would enjoy the beauty.

I tried to look on the bright side. Maybe we didn’t want to be on a boat for another day. Maybe San Juan Island looked like Victoria since it is near it (that point didn’t help at all). Maybe the whales aren’t that exciting to see (also, not helping my mood). As with most brilliant couples, and yes, I would allow us in that category after much practice, there is the “encourager role”. Doesn’t matter who plays it, but there must be at least one to survive disappointment. Chris took the role gladly. Patiently waiting as I established plans “A-C” of what to do with said, “non-refundable tickets”. Then quickly and effortlessly navigating us by foot to Pike’s Peak Market to have a second breakfast at the first Starbucks and a pastry from Piroshky Piroshky Bakery.

We meandered through handcrafted art and food stalls in the Market and soon made our way to downtown Seattle. My spirit had lifted even more when Chris suggested we park our luggage somewhere and go see a movie – a treat when one owns three Mini Macks. Nordstrom’s flagship store is apparently the only place to park one’s luggage. And get this, at no cost for an endless amount of time! (Tipping the conseguire is highly encouraged).

We watched a movie and then went to dinner. Picking up our luggage, we again took the $2.75 Link metro ride from Westlake Station to the end of the line at Sea/Tac International Airport. Waiting at our gate, we clunked our way through our work inboxes. We were both successful making it through our tasks before the redeye home boarded. I joked Chris that the hardest part of going home was that I wouldn’t get to hang out with him anymore. He quickly quipped, “Right, we might never see each other again.” Always the loyal, sarcastic, and dry witted companion, I knew this trip was one of the best ever. Here’s to many more landmark anniversary trips. Cheers!